How to Sew Lined Back Tab Curtains (with or without a lining)

One of the easiest ways to refresh the look of a room is to change up the curtains. Personally, after having the same curtains for eight years, I decided it was time for a change!

Today, I will share how I made back tab curtains, also known as hidden tab curtains. These curtains are perfect for any room in the house! This project is relatively simple but requires some patience to complete. 

Our curtains are made with a lining, but the same procedure can be used to make unlined curtains.Learn more about making back tab curtains by watching our video or reading this tutorial!

What kind of fabric should I use?

There are many fabrics you can use for your curtains! Woven fabrics, like cotton, linen, and canvas, are the best for this type of project. I would not recommend any fabric that has stretch, like knit or jersey, or any fabrics, like fleece, that are not woven.

Which fabric you choose will depend on what you want from your curtains. Consider whether you need blackout curtains, insulation for your window, and what colors or patterns would match your room. For more light blocking, consider choosing a heavier fabric closer to a cotton canvas in a darker color. A lining will also increase the light-blocking ability of your curtains! For more insulation, consider a thicker fabric, such as flannel, and consider lining the curtains with a similar fabric. And, of course, the best part about making your own curtains is the ability to choose the pattern!

WHAT YOU NEED to Make Back Tab Curtains

• Main fabric
• (Optional) Lining fabric
• Lightweight fusible interfacing
• Matching thread
• Common sewing supplies, like an iron, sewing machine, pins, etc.

Step 1: Measure your window

Measure your window from side to side (including the frame!). Curtains are often 1.5x to 2x the width of the window they will cover. With lighter fabrics that drape nicely, consider erring toward the wider end of that range! With heavier or stiffer fabrics, consider choosing a width closer to 1.5 the window width. However, using the fabric width as the panel width is often the easiest choice, so consider that at the fabric store. 

Measure the window from the curtain rod to where you want the curtain to fall. Each cut fabric for the panel should be Measured Curtain Length + 10” to allow for hemming on the top and bottom. You will also need to add 8” per panel to make the tabs. If you are using the fabric width for the width of the panel, you should buy at least: 

(# of panels) x (measured curtain length + 10” + 8”) 

If you are using a lining, each panel should be 2” shorter than your measured curtain length. Therefore, you should use the formula:

(# of panels) x (measured curtain length - 2”) 

I would always recommend getting more than needed to be on the safe side. 

For example, my window measurements are 65" wide by 65" long, so each panel would need to be cut 83” long (65" + 10" + 8"). Since I have two panels, I will need at least 166" of fabric. In yards, this is 166" / 36" = 4.6 yards. However, I rounded it up and purchased 5 yards of fabric to err on the safe side. 

Step 2: Cut your pieces

As mentioned before, each panel should be cut the curtain length + 10”. If the width will be trimmed, cut the fabric to the final width desired + 2”.

If you have a rotary cutter, you can use it to get a straight cut across. If you do not have a rotary cutter, measure on either side of the fabric and mark with a pin. Use a ruler to sketch a line across your fabric with a tailor's chalk or a pencil. Ensuring this cut is straight is very important, so take your time!

If you are using a lining, cut each lining panel to be the curtain length - 2”. The same process may be used to cut these panels. If the width is trimmed, cut the fabric to the final width desired + 1 1/2”. The lining is cut a bit smaller than the curtain fabric.

If your curtain fabric is lightweight, cut several strips of fusible interfacing that are 4” wide. How many strips you need will depend on the fabric's width and the interfacing's width. 

For the tabs, cut a strip that is 8” wide. Then, sub-cut into 6” strips. You should end up with 6” x 8” rectangles of fabric. Once again, a rotary cutter makes this process easier and faster. However, it is achievable with fabric scissors!

Step 3: Make the tabs

Place your fabric on the ironing board with the right side facing down.

Fold the fabric in half on the 8” edge (so the folded fabric should be 6” x 4”). Press to create a crease, then unfold.

Next, fold each of the ends towards the middle crease.

You should end up with your fabric 4” x 6”.

Fold again along the original crease. This should make a 2” x 6” tab.

Topstitch or edgestitch along the open edge, 1/8" - 1/4” from the edge.

I topstitched on one side only since these tabs will be on the back of the curtains and not visible. Repeat for all the tabs, then place them aside.

Step 4: Hemming the Long sides

Since the example curtain has a lining, the instructions will generally be about completing this project with a lining. However, the steps are the same if you do not have a lining! Disregard any mention of a lining and complete the same steps. 

Place the curtain fabric right side down and smooth out as much as possible. Then, lay the lining on top of the main fabric, right side up (this means wrong sides together).

Align one long side of the lining ¼” from the long side of the curtain fabric. Center the lining vertically on the curtain fabric. This should leave 6” on both the top and the bottom. Don't worry; the hem will cover the edges of the lining.

First, hem the two long sides. Fold both fabrics towards the wrong side by 1” and iron a crease.

Fold over by 1” again to finish the hem. Iron and pin it in place.

Thread your sewing machine with thread matching the curtain color. Using a straight stitch of normal length, topstitch along the folded edge 1/8" - 1/4" from the inner folded edge.

Smooth out both layers as much as possible. Take your time with this! We want both layers to act as one, so ensuring the layers are completely flat is very important.

Then, repeat the process to hem the second side:  Folding in the edges 1" and 1", iron, pin, and sew. 

Step 5: Hemming the bottom

If your fabric is directional, hem the bottom, as the top will have more steps. First, fold the fabric up 1”, and iron.

Then, fold the fabric up 4”, iron, and pin. Make sure the hem covers the raw edge of the lining. Topstitch along the open folded edge. 

Step 6: Finishing the top Edge or Curtain Header

To finish the top hem or curtain header, fold using the same process as the bottom hem: fold up 1" and iron. Then fold up 4" and iron again. Do not pin or sew.

I recommend adding lightweight interfacing to the top if you use a lightweight curtain fabric. Open up the hem and place the interfacing between the two folds with the bumpy side facing down. Fuse the interfacing to the header following the manufacturer's directions.  Refold along the same creases as before and iron.

Now, we will add the tabs. Start by placing a tab on each side. Then, space the remaining tabs approximately 6” apart across the hem.

Slide the raw edge of the tab about 1” below the fold, and pin it in place once you are happy with the placement.

Place and pin each tab evenly across the curtain panel approximately 6" apart.

Topstitch along the open edge close to the fold. This stitching will close the header and also catch all of the tabs.

Now, we will finish making the tabs. Fold the tabs towards the top edge of the curtain. Fold under the raw edge of each tab about 1” so it's just below the top of the curtain.

Pin the tabs in place.

Topstitch along the top edge of the curtain. Make sure to catch all of the tabs when you do so!

Repeat the same steps for as many panels as you have. Then you’re done! Your curtains are ready to hang. 

Other sewing tutorials you may be interested in:

• How to sew a kitchen curtain
• How to sew a valance curtain
• How to sew an envelope pillow cover