How to Do the Herringbone Stitch (Embroidery Stitch)

The Herringbone Stitch: A Decorative and Versatile Embroidery Stitch

What is the herringbone embroidery stitch?

The herringbone stitch is a classic hand embroidery technique that belongs to the cross-stitch family.   It’s created by forming a crisscross pattern that resembles the skeleton of a herring fish - hence its name.

To create the herringbone stitch, you work a series of parallel diagonal stitches across two parallel lines, ensuring they cross at the top and bottom creating its distinctive V-shape pattern.  

Despite its intricate look, the herringbone stitch is quite simple to learn, making it an excellent choice for both beginners and experienced stitchers. Once you get the hang of the back-and-forth motion, you’ll find stitching to be both fun and relaxing.

You can learn the herringbone stitch embroidery through our step-by-step photo tutorial, which shows how to make it on evenweave cloth and also uneven woven cloth. Additionally, be sure to check out our video tutorial.

learn how to embroider the basic herringbone stitch

In this first beginner-friendly tutorial, you'll learn how to embroider the basic herringbone stitch using evenweave fabric such as Aida cloth.  This type of fabric is perfect for learning this stitch because the evenly spaced holes clearly show where to insert your needle, making it easy to follow and a great way to practice the stitch. 

The direction you work this stitch may depend on whether you are right-handed or left-handed.  Most right-handed people work from left to right, while left-handed stitchers often prefer to work from right to left.  For this tutorial, the demonstration will be from left to right.

STEP 1: Prepare your fabric and needle

Begin by placing your fabric in an embroidery hoop to keep it taut and stable as you stitch. 

Select the desired embroidery floss or thread color and cut a length of embroidery floss about 14 – 18” long.  Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end.

 STEP 2: START THE FIRST STITCH

The herringbone stitch can be created in a variety of widths and heights.  

Let's begin the tutorial! You will start with a diagonal stitch, bring the threaded needle up from the back of the fabric at the point where you'd like your first stitch to begin.  Pull the floss through completely.

Next, count over four holes to the right and then up four holes. Insert the needle at this point and pull the floss all the way through to the back, creating your first slanted stitch (diagonal stitch).

Now, bring the needle up from the back two holes to the left of where it just went down, making a small backward stitch on the back of the fabric.  Pull the needle and floss up to the front of the fabric.

To complete the second diagonal stitch (slanted stitch), count six holes to the right of the stitch along the bottom row; insert the needle and pull the needle and floss to the back again.

These stitches should cross each other at the top, forming a small V-shape at the top and a larger upside-down V-shape below.

STEP 3: CREATE THE HERRINGBONE PATTERN

After the initial stitch, continue working the herringbone pattern on the even weave cloth using a sequence of two-hole and four-hole movements.

To create the pattern, bring the needle up two holes to the left of the last point where it went down.Pull floss through.

On the top row, count four holes to the right and insert the needle.  Then, move two holes to the left and bring the needle up again.

On the bottom row, count four holes to the right and insert the needle once more. 

Then two holes to the left.

As you continue stitching, each new slanted stitch should cross over the previous one, maintaining the decorative herringbone pattern across the fabric.

STEP 4: SECURE THE STITCH

When you reach the end of the row or if you run out of thread, you can secure your work by either knotting the thread on the back of the fabric or weaving the thread through nearby stitches to hide the tail.

working herringbone stitch on uneven-woven fabric

STEP 1: Prepare the Fabric and Needle

Begin by placing the fabric in an embroidery hoop to keep it stable and taut while you stitch.

Choose your embroidery floss or thread and cut a piece approximately 14 to 18 inches long.  Thread your needle and secure the end with a knot.

STEP 2: Mark Parallel Lines on Fabric

When working on uneven-weave cloth or plain-weave fabric, the lack of visible holes makes it harder to space your stitches evenly.  To help with consistency, lightly draw two parallel horizontal lines on the fabric using chalk, a pencil or a water-soluble marker.  These lines will act as guides for the top and bottom rows of your herringbone stitch pattern.

As you gain confidence and accuracy, you can skip this step and stitch freehand.

STEP 3: Start the First Stitch

As before, bring the needle up from the back of the fabric at the bottom left corner on the lower line. Pull the thread all the way through.

Create the first diagonal stitch, in one motion, insert the point of the needle into the fabric on the upper line slightly to the right and bring the needle back up through the fabric just a short distance to the left of where you inserted it - still along the upper line. 

Pull the needle until the floss is through the fabric, creating the first diagonal stitch and a small backward stitch on the back of the fabric.

Next, take the needle and cross diagonally to the lower line, creating a second slanted stitch similar in size to the first.  Keep the needle facing from the right to the left, and take a similarly sized small stitch along the bottom row a little to the left of where it went down.

Pull the thread through.

Continue this process, alternating between the upper and lower lines.  Each new stitch should cross over the previous one, forming the classic herringbone pattern.

The finished row should look similar to this:

The herringbone stitch is a beautiful, timeless embroidery technique that adds both elegance and sophistication to a project.With practice, patience and a bit of creativity, you'll be able to master this versatile stitch and use it to enhance garments, accessories, home decor, and more.

I hope you've enjoyed learning how to stitch the herringbone stitch and feel inspired to use it on your next embroidery project.

Happy Stitching!

more free hand embroidery stitch tutorials

Don't forget to peek at our other stitch tutorials

• Chevron Stitch
• Blanket Stitch
• Backstitch
• French Knot